Out Damn Spots !

 

Probably one of the most common skin challenges and one of the most difficult to solve. The quicker you can tackle this issue the better. The older the brown spots the more Herculean it is to fade them and even the smallest amount of UV light can reactivate them. The objective is to squash melanin activity and put those pigmented cells to sleep. In lieu of immediately trying hydroquinone, which is quite controversial, try vitamin C, licorice extract, kojic acid or retinol. I like vitamin C in the AM and retain-A at night. Also exfoliate often, but gently with manual scrubs or exfoliating acids such as glycolic or salicylic. When utilized regularly exfoliant will lessen the appearance of dark spots by breaking the darker cells apart. A hint: take exfoliation easy during the summer when melanin cells are active, too much scrubbing and rubbing can actually trigger them. 

 

Pigmentation is not only stimulated by sun and over-exfoliating but also by heat. Those prone to brown spots need to keep skin cool, especially post-exercise. Not only is keeping on plenty of sunscreen or simply staying out of the sun, possibly hot yoga is not such a "hot" choice.  

Cheers, Miss Violet

Can You or Should You Layer Sunscreens ?

 

Yes and Yes ! Layering SPF rich products is a double-check that you are applying a sufficient amount to protect and cover all your bases. Sun protections is paramount 365 days a year. It will protect fragile skin from aging, wrinkles, discoloration and most importantly skin cancer. A SPF of 30 or greater is necessary, must be applied last and must be lathered on. What genre of sunscreen you choose is your choice: sunscreen targeted for the beach, an anti-aging sunscreen, a moisturizing sunscreen, a foundation with a SPF etc. Just follow the guidelines of choosing one with a minimum SPF of 30 and apply enough of it, don't be stingy. 

 

Layering sunscreens is surprisingly facile, there are no steadfast rules. Dozens of studies show that whatever you can do to get more sunscreen on will mean you are better protected. FDA guidelines state that most do not apply enough product and most do not re-apply every 2 hours. The only hiccup is how much more protection you get from layering is not clear. Applying a primer with a SPF of 30, then applying a moisturizer sunscreen with a 45, followed by a foundation with 15 does not equal a SPF of 90, but it does equate to more sun protection. Sun damage will begin the very 1st minute you walk outside, application needs to be 20 minutes to all of your parts and pieces prior to exposure. 

 

What does a liberal application mean? Smooth on a visible layer, massage it in and if planning say a beach day, spread on another layer. Sunscreens break down via direct exposure to the sun and therefore have to be re-applied. And UVA rays of daylight are every: through car and office windows, even if just running to the car. 

 

What about applying makeup over sunscreen ? Love layering. Allow sunscreen to set prior to applying makeup, use light pressure and better yet find a makeup base with sunscreen. Not convinced that sunscreen must be an integral part of your daily routine, according to the John Wayne Cancer Foundation  "skin cancer is the most common cancer in the US with 3.6 million people diagnosed annually, and its on the rise. 1 in 3 Californians will be diagnosed with skin cancer during their lifetime. 95-100 % of skin cancer is curable if caught early and treated quickly.  So Block the blaze.

DON'T FORGET YOUR LEGWORK ! AND ARMWORK !

The crusade for firm, smooth and uniform skin doesn't stop at the neck. While my legs aren't bad, my arms are more of a testimony of decades of SPF renouncement. My legs, most notably my knees are starting to witness a crease and wrinkle here and there. Then at hot yoga, the comparison of my knees ( though not bad ) to the twenty something in tree pose to my left made me ruminate, what if I were to treat my body more like I treat my face ? 

 

The puckering , creases , freckles, dark spots and some actinic keratosis are the results of age and sun-damage. And unfortunately "the skin on the body is more resistant to firming than the skin on the face", says Manhattan derm Dennis Gross, MD. Gross who utilizes a combo of laser therapy and in-office peels says, " there's nothing great yet for laxity on the body, as far as devices go. There's a real demand for it, but no company has really cracked the code and brought anything to market." So what if one vowed to not neglect our 4 precious stems, but keep them out of the sun and treat them with attentive TLC as one treats their face ? Dr. Gross does recommend searching for body products with the same active and anti-aging ingredients in skin care, since " you're seeing the exact same changes on the body-loss of collagen and natural hyaluronic acid as you do on the face...". Dermatologists recommend mixing retinol with body moisturizer and applying that before bed. Or try regular use of a high percentage of alpha hydroxy acid on the entire body. 

 

Regular exfoliation is key as well: manual and chemical, " especially in summertime ", says Gross, " when the body reacts to ultraviolet light by creating more dead skin as a barrier." The same at home peels kits may be used on arms and legs. And for the ultimate ready for the beach bod try a pre-shower dry brush buff. Which according to Los Angeles dermatologist Annie Chiu, " will increase circulation and temporarily plumps the skin for an even less dimply appearance." So newly committed to care for my gams like I do my face I tried Replenix Retinol Pads on my arms followed by 

                Repenix's All-Trans-Retinol Smoothing Body Lotion on my whole body before bed. In the morning I gave myself a good dry brush, smoothed Nectifirm on my thighs ( and my stomach for posterity sake ) followed by a slathering of sunscreen-everywhere. I swear as I headed down to pick up my son from Junior Guards camp at the beach my thighs looked smoother in my almost too short shorts and my arms brighter. 

 

 

CAN YOU EVER RID THE RED ?

If skin is red because of acne, a sunburn, rosacea or something else, getting the red out can be problematic. There have been considerable improvements in skin-care and in-office treatments, but can chronically red skin be fixed ?

 

Inflammation and redness from say sunburn, windburn, acne, keratosis pilaris or eczema that create microbreaks are often situational and treatable. Try anti-redness creams that contain calming ingredients like white tea, licorice, borage seed oil or evening primrose oil. Look for a product with "anti-redness" in the name. " For long-term relief, in-office laser and light-based treatments can help," says Nashville, TN, dermatologist Michael Gold, MD. "With today's advanced pulse-dye lasers and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), getting rid of these types of redness is fairly easy, but you may need more than one treatment to see results."

 

But if redness is caused by rosacea, there is unfortunately no cure. More than 14 million people in the United States suffer from rosacea. Triggers for rosacea may be provoked by caffeine, stress, spicy foods or extreme change in temperatures, but the resulting redness can be managed. "While rosacea is a chronic condition, some forms of rosacea (papular/pustular), can be controlled (but not eliminated) with oral medication such as a tetracycline derivative," says Houston dermatologist Suneel Chilukuri, MD. "However, if medication is not continued or treatments are not maintained, the pamphlets and pustules, as well as accompanying redness, will recur rapidly." Topical treatments such as ReBalance, Anti Redness Serum or Clearskin by Physician's Choice of Arizona are specifically targeted for rosacea and are safe to use daily. And last but not least daily use of sunscreen is paramount.

Cheers, Miss Violet

AMAZING AMINO ACIDS !

Protein is crucial to most biological processes and amino acids are the building blocks. An immense amount of our cells, muscles and tissue are made up of these mighty particles. They also aid in the storage and transport of nutrients and are an essential element in repairing tissue in our muscles, bone, hair and SKIN. Not only do they play a crucial role in healing wounds, they remove waste deposits. " A large portion of our epidermal cells is made of protein," says Beverly Hills, CA dermatologist Rhonda Rand, MD. "Collagen is the main protein of the skin, and keratin is the fibrous protein that forms the main structure of hair and nails. Produced mainly by our liver, amino acids aid in collagen production and healing. The skin renews itself and constantly heals itself from all the damage it incurs, so it always needs new building blocks, aka amino acids, to continually repair itself," says Dr. Rand." "Amino acids are critical for both healthy skin and a healthy body," says Greenbrae, CA plastic surgeon Kimberly Henry, MD. "They promote collagen production, fat burning, a healthy pH balance, increase hydration, reduce the effects of aging and keep the hair and nails healthy," says Henry. Because amino acids diminish with age, its important to keep feeding our bodies daily. A lack of essential amino acids results in a decrease in collagen production, the skin's ability to retain water, an increase in body fat, rough and dehydrated skin, a slower rate of healing, a dull complexion, loss of skin elasticity, digestive problems and low energy. Our bodies make plenty of amino acids, 20 if you're counting, but essential amino acids must be obtained through foods or supplements. "Your body does not have a protein reserve like it does for fat or carbohydrates so ideally you need to make sure you get these essential amino acids on a daily basis," says Toni McKinnon, director of science information at USANA Health Science. You can do this by consuming meats, nuts, beans, lentils and dairy products. 

So does putting amino acids on our skin help ? "They absolutely do," says NY dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross, MD. "Amino acids are very small molecules and can be easily delivered into skin. Because they are so tiny, they are easy to produce." Applying amino acids topically is a very potent means of providing our bodies with them for the purpose of beauty. "With food products, you won't get the maximum concentration of the important amino acids skin needs. But with topical products, the doses are more effective and there is a targeted supply of the specific amino acids that work to create collagen," says Gross. So....maybe a little bit of egg on our face isn't so bad after all. Or better yet head to shopspaViolet.

Cheers, Miss Violet

Are Your Bases Covered?

1. Are you using enough ? The protocol for sunscreen application is 2 milligrams per square centimeter of skin, most of us are not using enough. "People who apply SPF 30 are usually getting the efficacy of a 10 or 15," says Steven Q. Wang, the director of dermatology surgery and dermatology at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in Basking Ridge, New Jersey. "Most people apply one milligram-instead of the recommended two milligrams-per square centimeter of skin, so they're getting about half of the SPF value on the label." Try applying several thin layers of broad-spectrum sunscreen, like UV Pure Broad Spectrum SPF 47 by EltaMD.

 

2. Slap it on then you're done ? No way ! Most sunscreens work for maybe 2 hours. If you are inside for most of the day your morning "slap" should work. Going outside to grab a coffee or lunch ? You will need to re-apply.

 

3. Sunscreens are only found in a tube. Nope, try sun-protective clothing. Add a large and floppy hat and protective clothing to your sunscreen routine.

 

4. Sunglasses ? Yes. Aside from protecting your eyes ( eyes can become sunburned ), there will be a lot less squinting. Not good for those "character" lines around eyes and on the forehead.

 

5. Cover all of your bases. There are spots everyone misses. Remember to cover brows, hairline and that hard to reach spot in the middle of your back. Not double jointed, ask for help. And apply 30 minutes before heading out, give your sunscreen time to penetrate.

 

6. Read the ingredients. Only 4 protect against UVA1 rays, which causes aging and DNA mutations that can lead to skin cancer. The most effective, avobenzone is not stable in sunlight unless paired with octocrylene. If a physical block is more your taste zinc oxide is the best option. Try Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreens to "cover" all of your "bases".

 

7. Sunscreen only at the beach ? Even 5 minutes outside without sunscreen is bad. The sun immediately activates a reaction that damages DNA in unprotected skin cells and will continue long after back inside. Apply whether running errands or whether it is cloudy.

 

8. Umbrellas will do the job. No Mam. 78% of participants sitting under an umbrella without sunscreen burned. Use both.

 

9. Make it easy. Find a sunscreen with a broad spectrum, hydration, tint and anti-aging ingredients like Intellishade by Revision Skincare. And stick the tube by your toothbrush so you don't forget to apply.

 

Cheers, Miss Violet

New Research Is Changing The "Face" on Skin Care.

1. Cholesterol ? An intrinsic element of the material that bonds our skin cells together and an important ingredient to look for in our skin care, especially by age 40. Glorious when combined with fatty acids and ceramides, which also are like glue for our skin...holds skin cells firmly in place creating a smoother and more radiant appearance. I wouldn't start eating spoonfuls of butter though, research shows eating more cholesterol won't do anything for skin. Try it topically.

2. Relax a wee bit on exfoliating.  " We're learning that we have to respect the pH of the skin and it's healthy bacteria," says Whitney Bowe, a New York City dermatologist. " Physical exfoliations, like loofah and gritty scrubs, remove good bacteria from the skin and throws off its pH. That can trigger rosacea or eczema flare-ups and boost enzymes that destroy collagen and cause wrinkles and sagging over time." Mon Dieu ! But......" Most peels are acidic and can benefit the skin by encouraging growth of healthy bacteria," says Bowe, who admonishes weekly or twice-weekly salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid  peels. Try Exuviance's at home Performance Peel AP25.

3. Start Moving. In one study those between 20-86 who exercised at an increased intensity had skin that looked and acted younger. And the good news is, it's not too late to start. Former couch potatoes who began moderate exercise 2X a week for 45 minutes had a change in their skin. The study showed that regular and intense exercise devotees had thin inner stratum corneum layers and energetic mitochondrial cells. So get that heart rate up ! 

4. Peptides Please. We know about putting peptides on our face, but now it seems we should be popping peptide pills as well. Peptides are one of the few in skin care that works on the outside and the inside. A study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology shows women who ingested a 2500 milligram collagen peptide supplement every day for 8 weeks manifested a 20% reduction in wrinkles around the eyes, a 65% increase of procollagen type 1 and an 18% increase in elastin. Just a resplendent way of saying less wrinkling around the eyes.

5. Chill On The Hot Yoga. " We used to think UV rays were the main culprit for melasma, but data is indicating that invisible light and heat may cause dark patches too," says Doris Day, a clinical dermatologist at New York University Langone Medical Center in New York City. In addition to using your daily SPF, perhaps add a product that calms skin and regulates temperature like Colorescience's Skin Calming Face Primer SPF 20 or Rebalance by Physician's Choice.

6. Change It Up. Who says you can't use something thick and wonderful under eyes, a salicylic or glycolic on your T-zone and something hydrating on lips. OR retin-A on your forehead , neck and jaw line and something to minimize redness on the bridge of nose, cheeks and chin. The rule is there is no rule.

7. No " Puffer Fish Face. " Bones in your face do shrink and therefore contribute to a sagging and flat appearance. Now dermatologists are finding that injecting fillers deeper onto the top layer of bone, instead of in wrinkles is reversing some bone shrinkage. And therefore alleviating that " blowfish face."

8. You Gotta SPF. Sunscreen is even better than we thought. A study sponsored by Johnson and Johnson found that those using a moisturizer with only a SPF of 30 and nothing else ended up with an improvement in skin tone by 52%, texture by 40% and clarity by 41%. By nothing else, I mean nothing else....no Retin-A, AHA's or lighteners. So sunscreen may actually not just prevent aging, it may reverse aging.

Cheers, Miss Violet

The Fountain of Youth

 

 

While Ponce de Leon did not find the fountain of youth, experts are deeming Vitamin C as our own version. Myriads of studies show that this magical antioxidant is one of the best anti-aging products on the market. And not only effective as an anti-ager, C is effective in minimizing dark spots, stimulating collagen output, diminishing fine lines and giving skin an overall radiance.

 

 " Vitamin C is the single most powerful, multi-functional topical ingredient you can use," says Benjamin Fuchs, a pharmacist and cosmetic chemist. " It can actually penetrate, be absorbed, and be utilized in fibroblasts of the skin." Want a bang for your buck, try serums which are generally formulated with the highest concentrates of ascorbic acid AKA: vitamin C. A good % to start with is 15: the gold standard. " That is the ideal level-not only do you get the anti-aging benefit, but you also get a healthy glow," says cosmetic chemist Ni'kita Wilson.

 

Even better is when a C serum is a cocktail of vitamin C and age-defying ingredients. Example, Ferulic acid is a protectant from the sun ( a major cause of premature aging ) and Niacinamide and vitamin E , AKA tocopherol, are anti-inflammatory. Another added ingredient is often copper peptides, which firms skin and increases and improves density and elasticity. 

 

What's the  best way to use vitamin C according to Miss Violet ? Use your C followed by sunscreen in the morning ; C used before sunscreen actually boosts sunscreen's efficacy. After cleansing apply a few drops of C to the face and neck, then apply sunscreen. No need to wait between applications, C is absorbed immediately. A tip : to increase C's efficiency use Retin-A at night. The retinoids will help speed up exfoliation and cell turnover, allowing vitamin C to work even better.

Cheers, Miss Violet. 

Too Sweaty ? No Sweat !

PiperWai Natural Deodorant

Sweating is normal. Sweating is natural. Sweating is healthy. It is an important function of our bodies, because it helps maintain body temperature by cooling us down. When we are hot we sweat, that sweat evaporates and cools us down. Sweating is like our body's own AC. When we are nervous we tend to sweat, you've probably noticed a connection between emotions and sweat glands. This is because sweat glands are controlled by the hypothalamus and tend to be primarily activated by emotional stimuli and stressors.

Normally bodies produce up to 1 liter of sweat per day, which evaporates so quickly we really don't notice. The body produces more sweat in warmer weather and during exercise. If a person exercises extremely hard in the heat they could produce up to 10 liters. Here are 10 interesting sweat filled facts:

1. Humans have up to 5 million sweat glands

2. Horses, camels and humans are the sweatiest beings

3. Men sweat more than women

4. Ancient Egyptians used aluminum crystals as antiperspirants 

5. The more fit you are, the more you sweat

6. Armpit sweat is only about 1% of normal body sweat

7. We tend to sweat more in the afternoon because our metabolism increases throughout the day

8. We sweat more during summer 

9. More sweat occurs in our armpits when standing up than we lying down

10. Overweight people sweat less than lean people due to the lower density of sweat glands caused by more subcutaneous fat: fat under the skin

In extreme sweating, or primary hyperhidrosis, sweat glands are in overdrive

" People with hyperhidrosis have hyperactive sweat glands, so those sweat glands are in the 'on' position continuously, resulting in excessive sweating," says Raleigh, NC plastic surgeon Cynthia Diehl, MD. " Normally the body sends signals to sweat in order to cool off. Hyperactive sweat glands are not responding to those normal signals, leading to constant sweating."

We actually have 2 different types of sweat glands- eccrine and apocrine glands. Eccrine glands are designed to purely cool off the body, while apocrine glands secrete stress sweat. Apocrine glands are on feet, groins and armpits and unlike eccrine glands secrete sweat with an added protein molecule. And believe it or not sweat doesn't smell. It only starts to stink when bacteria under arms eats that protein. Our bodies produce mostly this type when we are stressed. 

Our PiperWai deodorant creates a balanced pH environment where stinky bacteria cannot survive and therefore helps render sweat odorless. It doesn't cover up the odor it neutralizes the odor. Why, because PiperWai uses a medicinal grade activated charcoal that is ULTRA absorbent. The charcoal absorbs odor, moisture and toxins. So whether you are a normal "Sweaterer" or a "Super Sweaterer" , in lieu of clinical strength antiperspirants or antiperspirants and deodorants chock full of strange chemicals, give PiperWai a try. "No detox period necessary."
Cheers, Miss Violet

Chuck The Day Creams For The Night Creams ?

The main difference between day and night products is that daytime products are lighter and usually contain a SPF of 15 or more. The lighter consistency makes it much easier to layer under makeup. " Nightime is when skin does its heavy lifting, " says Patti Pao, founder/CEO of a popular skin care line. " Skin does the bulk of its restoring and repairing while we sleep, so night creams are focused on moisture and recovery, which is why they are often richer and heavier than day creams." Night creams typically contain a heavier concentration of ingredients such as peptides, hydrating elements, AHA's and retinol. " The active ingredients in day creams are different than those in night creams, but that doesn't mean they aren't significant for achieving optimal skin health, " says New York dermatologist Dendy Engleman MD. " Some ingredients, like SPF and antioxidants, are better received by skin in the morning versus at night due to the body's circadian rhythms, so using them at night provides little to no benefit." AND, because skin will most likely be subject to direct UV rays ( yes even while driving ) during the day regular use of a SPF of 30 is recommended. This could mean the difference of having a bright and youthful complexion or a hyperpigmented and aging one. The bottom line : day and night creams just serve different purposes, so don't CHUCK your day creams.

Cheers, Miss Violet

SIX URBAN ACNE LEGENDS:

1. You can dry out your skin to cure acne. Nope. That will actually encourage and foster breakouts and inhibit skin's ability to combat acne. Absorbing excess oil is much different than drying out skin with acrid ingredients.

2. Dirty skin=ACNE . This blunder can lead to over-scrubbing or over-cleansing skin with harsh and abrasive soaps and exfoliants, which will only aggravate skin and lead to an increase in oil production.

3. Spot treatments are better than full face treatments. Possibly for those who rarely break out, but treating the whole face will help tackle breakouts that are not visible yet. Salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide will reduce swelling and redness of existing spots, but be mindful to treat the whole shebang.

4. If it stings it must be working ! Not usually. Research shows that useless ingredients don't work, but actually makes skin aggravated and acne worse.

5. Pass on the See's candy and French Fries.....it will give you pimples. Research shows that foods rich in chocolate, grease or fat are not catalysts for acne for most people. But foods high in refined sugars (often chocolate rich foods) may spike one's insulin, which is linked to acne. Try passing on the See's for a few weeks and see if it helps.

6. Scrub-a-dub those blackheads away. Sorry, as stated earlier gentler is better. A clean white wash cloth and a cleanser that targets acne will do !

Cheers, Miss Violet

WHAT IS A BIGGER CULPRIT IN AGING THE SUN OR POLLUTION ?

WHAT IS A BIGGER CULPRIT IN AGING THE SUN OR POLLUTION ?

Surprisingly pollution is just as bad ! "While we don't know exactly how much pollution exposure is necessary for damage to occur, in a study in Chinese women older than 50, there was an increase in spots on the cheeks due to pollution", says Charlotte, NC dermatologist Gilly Munavalli, MD. Pollution damage, also known as particle pollution is a mixture of miniscule particles and liquid drops of soil, chemicals, acids, metals or dust from the environment that penetrate our skin through follicles and pores. "Evidence still points to the sun as the cause of premature aging. However, more studies are looking into the effects of pollution coupled with UV damage as factors for pigmentation", explains Dr. Munavalli. In addition to a daily dose of a SPF look for products with "anti-pollution" elements such as plant extracts, Vitamin C and E that add another layer of protection.

Cheers, Miss Violet

Retinol : The Fountain of Youth ?

Retinol : The Fountain of Youth ?

Proven to speed up cellular turnover that rids existing skin damage and interrupts environmental and general free-radical damage Retinol is making a comeback. "Retinol is effective because when it's absorbed into your skin, it gets broken down an converted into retinoic acid, which essentially effects the chemistry of skin cells and makes them behave 'younger'", explains Amandine Isnard, head of product development at a large skin care research company. "There are a huge number of benefits associated with retinol, including thickening the deeper layers of the skin by stimulating collagen production, reducing the production of sebum, exfoliation, minimizing pigmentation and repairing cellular damage." Retinol inhibits collagen breakdown by hindering the rise of the enzyme collagenase. And when collagen is boosted, VOILA smoother, brighter and less pigmented skin can be expected. It also has the capacity to get down and dirty with pores by unclogging them and helping with acne.

Six Reasons to Use Retinol:

1. Most obviously it works !

2. It talks to your skin. "Retinol up-regulates the genes that make collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin and turns on the fibroblasts (the skin cells that make collagen). It down-regulates the genes that make collagenase and it does so immediately", says Miami dermatologist Dr. Bauman, MD.

3. It's easy, easy, easy to add to your sin care regimen. Start with a pea-size amount over moisturizer every third night for 2 weeks, then increase to every other night for 2 weeks and then nightly. If that is still too difficult to acclimate to, then mix it with your moisturizer.

4. Follow the above protocol and you won't be RED !

5. There is an over abundance of choices on the market

6. Your skin will look better than ever. "I can't express how many good things it does for your skin-you'll want more of it", says Santa Monica dermatologist Dr.Shamban, MD.

Cheers, Miss Violet